Ferran llega rodeado de su personal, las manos en los bolsillos y una sonrisa que arquea sus cejas. Se hace el silencio y comienzan las presentaciones. Está de gira por varios países presentando su nueva exposición inaugurada en Madrid “Auditando el proceso creativo” con más de 1 000 m2 y abierta al público hasta el 1 de marzo de 2015, en colaboración con La Fundación Telefónica. En Panamá, Excelencias Gourmet tuvo la oportunidad de escuchar de primera mano sus reflexiones, junto a un público eminentemente gastronómico.
Considerado como una de las cien personas más influyentes del mundo, según la revista Time, el mejor chef de la última década y un incansable de la creación e innovación en prácticamente todos los aspectos de la comida, habla de ingredientes, conceptos, historia, proyectos y realidades.
Se expresa con pasión, se le nota. Su cabeza está llena de efervescentes ideas que evolucionan con él y su equipo. Todo va muy rápido, como en su cocina.
Salta de una idea a otra para conectarlas en tu cerebro justo antes de haber saltado a una tercera. Se explica bien y se auxilia con las manos que no paran de moverse en el aire, orquestando sus pensamientos para tener una receta, una idea que explicar.
Nos presenta su Innovation Space en el colorido museo de la Biodiversidad, un espacio con pantallas táctiles que te invitan a ser parte de sus símbolos y los diferentes ingredientes en los platos que realiza.
No es fácil acertar. Entender la exposición, los juegos interactivos y sus palabras te hacen pensar primero y escuchar después. Todo cambia y evoluciona al lado de Ferran. Explica sus conceptos y sus ideas a la vez que comenta que todo va cambiando, y de cada cosa nueva surge una pregunta, un reto y un proyecto más.
Ilustra sus tesis con un vaso de agua, un zumo de tomate y una naranja. Cada una de ellas tiene una explicación, un porqué y una vuelta más de tornillo. El zumo de tomate puede ser una salsa, una bebida o una mermelada, todo depende de cómo se enfoque.
A partir de aquí los alimentos cobran un nuevo significado. Los más jóvenes asienten con la cabeza y los chefs de más edad se rascan la mejilla. Nos recibe después de un día largo, charlas en la universidad, rueda de prensa, posar con admiradores y firmar libros, sin parar. Pese a todo, nos atiende cercano, tranquilo y con una sonrisa nuevamente.
- HACE POCO ESCUCHÉ UNA FRASE TUYA QUE ME GUSTARÍA ME EXPLICASES: “LA EMOCIÓN DEL FRACASO ES EL MOTOR DEL ÉXITO”:
- Sí, el tener esto de “voy a hacerlo bien” te hace continuar. Uno de los motivos por los que hicimos la transformación de elBulli fue porque llegamos a ser perfectamente aburridos. Era todo tan cuadriculado que sabíamos que el fracaso era difícil. Ahora con todo este proyecto de la Fundación, que es y está vivo, que es complejo y difícil de explicar, tenemos este gusanillo que teníamos al principio: dónde estamos, qué hacemos… Ya nuestro trabajo es abrir nuevas ventanas de fracaso.
-HAY UN MOMENTO DE TU VIDA DONDE LO HAS GANADO TODO, ESTÁS EN LA CRESTA DE LA OLA. ¿DECIDES CERRAR ELBULLI POR MIEDO A QUE, ENTRE OTRAS COSAS, EL ÉXITO TE FAGOCITE?
- El éxito fue uno de los motivos, pero hay más.
En Internet hay un montón de entrevistas de hace años donde decía que yo a los 50 me retiraba. Era algo que teníamos en el subconsciente y el éxito desmesurado de los últimos seis o siete años de elBulli lo aceleró todo. Hizo que tuviésemos que reflexionar sobre el cambio a nivel creativo. El formato tenía que ser ya bastante definitivo, que es el de ahora, que es el de la libertad. Ahora hago lo que me da la gana y cuando me da la gana, que era lo único que podía superar a lo que hacíamos.
- LA APUESTA EN INTERNET COMIENZA PRONTO. ¿CÓMO O QUIÉN TE AYUDA A ENFOCARTE EN ESA DIRECCIÓN CUANDO APENAS ESTABA COMENZANDO LA REVOLUCIÓN DIGITAL?
- Bueno, te vas dando cuenta de que es el siguiente paso poco a poco. Yo no soy adicto a Internet o un nativo digital. Lo que pasa es que para el conocimiento resulta fundamental, y mi reflexión va muy encaminada al conocimiento, no a la herramienta y su complejidad. No sé ni quiero saber cómo funciona todo esto. Lo que sí sé es cómo me gustaría ser el nuevo Google. Es lo que tengo en la cabeza y es lo que me hace trabajar con Telefónica y este proyecto.
-¿LA TRANSFORMACIÓN DE ELBULLI FUE ENTONCES A CONCIENCIA?
- Una cosa es lo que dijimos en Madrid Fusión el 27 de enero de 2010, y otra es donde hemos ido. No estaba todo previsto cuando lo hicimos y va a cambiar seguramente, porque es lo que quiero. No aspiro a tener un formato ya fijo para siempre. Queremos mantenerlo como un legado físico que pueda evolucionar y estar dentro de 100 o 200 años. Veremos si esto será o no posible, pero mientras nosotros estemos vivos se va a conservar con toda seguridad.
-¿DÓNDE Y EN QUÉ ESCENARIO, EN UN TIEMPO, PODREMOS VOLVER A DEGUSTAR LAS CREACIONES QUE SE SERVÍAN EN ELBULLI?
-En Barcelona hay ahora mismo cinco restaurantes con Albert (su hermano) donde puedes comer. Lo que se hacía exactamente en elBulli no se va a volver a probar, porque en ese espacio lo que va a haber es muy experimental. Se come con conocimiento, elBulli como restaurante desapareció. Se mantendrá con cosas muy experimentales, pero hay que olvidarse del pasado. Llevamos cinco años diciéndolo.
-¿QUÉ HA SIDO LO MÁS DIFÍCIL PARA EL EQUIPO EN ESTA ETAPA?
-Los mapas. Yo lo explico de una manera divertida a la gente, pero realmente es complejísimo llegar a estas conclusiones. El público se ríe, pero es muy complejo. No se lo deseo a nadie, si no lo disfruta como lo hemos disfrutado nosotros. Partimos del “no sé nada”, del “no tengo ni idea”… y ha sido apasionante porque continuamente vamos descubriendo, redescubriendo. Es como una madeja de hilo de la que vas tirando. Y sí, tiene un fin, porque sabes que el infinito no lo buscas. Entonces tienes que tener un fin en esta reflexión.
Queremos hacerlo todo divertido y no académico.
Está muy conectado y esperamos que en dos o tres años esté todo muy estructurado.
Empezaremos a sacar los libros, la información, todo el conocimiento.
-DENTRO DE TODA ESTA EVOLUCIÓN CONSTANTE QUE ESTÁS SUFRIENDO, ¿CUÁL HA SIDO LA ÚLTIMA COSA QUE TE HA IMPRESIONADO, QUE TE HAYA OBLIGADO A CAMBIAR EL RUMBO?
- Ahora mismo estoy bloqueado, pero muchas veces me pasa. Me considero una persona bastante normal, y aunque no lo parezca también paro. Pero el trabajo del BulliLab es continuo.
La cocina ha generado un contenido, unas actividades, unos intereses económicos que no están ordenados. Cuando tú coges un libro de historia de la gastronomía verás que el orden es muy caótico. Por eso estamos en todo esto, y es muy apasionante ver cómo estamos descodificando la evolución humana con sus disciplinas. Esto no tiene nada que ver con la cocina. Pienso que si no entendemos esto no podemos explicar de una manera sencilla algo que es muy difícil. Porque el problema de las descodifi- caciones es que cuando te lo explican parece fácil, pero no lo es, y eso lo estamos ordenando.
-¿HAS DEJADO DE SER CHEF?
-He estado 30 años haciendo el día a día. Es que hay que entender qué es ser cocinero. En los últimos años, yo dirigía a los que dirigían. Pero mi papel hoy como cocinero es otro que ponerme a pelar patatas o dirigir una cocina.
Ahora estamos con el último proyecto, ENIGMA, el más difícil de todos los que se han hecho, y estoy con Albert en la retaguardia.
Con el proyecto que tenemos con el Circo de Soleil igual. Ni ENIGMA ni Circo de Soleil son un restaurante, son cosas muy raras que estamos creando. Entonces, si me preguntas por el día a día, te digo que ya no me interesa para nada.
-TE REFIERES A ESTOS PROYECTOS, ENIGMA, ¿CUÁL ES LA ESENCIA?
- Es plantearte que muchos sitios donde se come no son restaurantes. Así ENIGMA es un lugar para disfrutar de una buena bebida alrededor de los snacks, un concepto que no es una coctelera, no es un bar. Estamos ahí y a ver qué sale. El Circo de Soleil es como vives la fiesta, la alegría… pero estamos ahí con una cosa para todo el mundo que no cueste 2000 dólares por persona, y estamos investigando los formatos. La gente nos mira preguntándose qué estamos haciendo.
-¿TODO LO QUE SE ESTÁ HACIENDO EN EL BULLILAB CONSIDERAS QUE VA A TENER UNA INFLUENCIA DIRECTA O INDIRECTA EN LAS POLÍTICAS GASTRONÓMICAS A PARTIR DE AHORA?
- Nunca sabes lo que va a pasar, pero sí. Estas conferencias les cambian la cabeza a los chicos que están allí. No pasa igual con la gente de mi edad. Si yo fuera el que está escuchando no me plantearía todo esto. Con 52 años no quieres que te calienten la cabeza. Esto solo puede ser para gente de 18, 19, 20... Ellos entienden que el vino no es una bebida y para ellos es normal, porque no están intoxicados por toda la información que hemos tenido nosotros.
- A RAÍZ DE LA CREACIÓN DE LA ACADEMIA IBEROAMERICANA DE GASTRONOMÍA HAN NACIDO OTRAS EN VARIOS PAÍSES DE LATINOAMÉRICA. ¿QUÉ OPINAS DE LAS ACADEMIAS Y SU INFLUENCIA O APORTACIONES AL DESARROLLO DE LA GASTRONOMÍA?
- La academia tiene que abrirse al mundo de la gastronomía, tiene que haber cocineros, tiene que haber gente de sala… No puedes imaginar una academia del cine sin directores. Por eso creo que está muy bien y aporta grandes cosas, aunque diversificar en demasiadas instituciones agota recursos. Pero me parece muy bien.
-UNA PREGUNTA SENCILLA, ¿QUÉ PREFIERE COMER FERRAN ADRIÀ?
- No, esta no es una pregunta sencilla, es muy compleja. Depende del momento, del lugar… Por ejemplo, después de hoy no sé qué voy a hacer. Cuando estamos con Telefónica no salgo apenas a cenar. Es una lástima.
Antes que Ferran Adrià desaparezca le regalamos un lápiz, para que siga haciendo anotaciones en cualquier trozo de papel. Sonríe para darnos las gracias. Y es que a él le gustan los lápices, tener uno a mano por si acaso y escribir enseguida lo que se le ocurre, para que no se le escapen la ideas. Se me queda en el tintero la pregunta: ¿cuánto tiempo le dura un lápiz? Se despide de nosotros como llegó, rodeado de su equipo. Fuera le esperan un montón de fans que aún quieren hacerse una foto o que les firme un libro. De nuevo firma, posa, sin dejar de sonreír.
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